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Upper West Side se nuwe smaak om kulinêre kragstasies ten toon te stel

Upper West Side se nuwe smaak om kulinêre kragstasies ten toon te stel


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Pasop vir Lower East Side. Die Bo -Wes is op die punt om 'n eis in te dien omdat dit 'n buurtkulinêre krag in New York is.

Die 2013 Whole Foods Market Nuwe smaak van die Upper West Side word verwag om Woensdag 29 Mei te begin en tot en met Saterdag 1 Junie te duur. In die loop van 'n paar dae sal New Taste 'n paar van die beste sjefs van die stad, A-gashere-waaronder Gail Simmons en Travel Channel-Adam Richman-bekend eerbewaarders en uitstekende restaurante.

Travel Channel's Man v. Kos Die ster Richman bied Vrydag, 31 Mei, Comfort Classics aan. Die geleentheid is bedoel om die sjefs van die Upper West Side, insluitend sjefs van Gastronomie 491, Jacob's Pickles en Sugar & Plumm, asook Ditch Plains en Magnolia Bakery, te wys. Richman het beslis 'n noue band met die Bo -Wes en is bly om terug te keer na 'n plek waar hy vroeër huis toe gebel het.

'Ek keer elke jaar terug na Taste of the Upper West Side, want as 'n inheemse New Yorker is dit 'n goeie geleentheid om nie net heerlike kos in die stad te wys nie, maar om te wys hoe 'n spesifieke woonbuurt, miskien 'n woonbuurt waarop mense nie noodwendig fokus nie wat voedsel betref, het sy eie kulinêre identiteit, kookkuns en 'n baie spesiale avontuurlike, heerlike gees, 'het Richman aan The Daily Meal gesê. 'En as iemand wat eens in 103rd en West End Avenue gewoon het, dink ek daaraan as 'n wonderlike tuiskoms waar ek honderde van my beste vriende kan nooi.'

Boonop vereer die Best of the West VIP -onthaal op 1 Junie die visioenêre restaurateur Danny Meyer, stigter en uitvoerende hoof van Union Square Hospitality Group (Union Square Café, Gramercy Tavern, Maialino, Blue Smoke en Skud Shackonder andere) en sy kollega, Randy Garutti, uitvoerende hoof van Shake Shack. Die geleentheid beloof om 'n aand van dans en eet onder 'n tent te wees met 'n agtergrond van Joe Battaglia & The New York Big Band.

New Taste is van stapel gestuur deur die Columbus Avenue Business Improvement District (BID). Die opbrengs van die naweek sal voortgaan om die Columbus Avenue BID se Streetscape -projek te bevoordeel, asook die Wellness in sy Skole -program by die O'Shea School -kompleks en P.S. 87. Kaartjies kan gekoop word aanlyn.


4 maniere om kinders in gesonde kos in NYC te laat eet

MANHATTAN & mdash Die kos wat in die stad se openbare skole bedien word, het die afgelope paar jaar gesonder geword namate volgraanpasta, gebakte friet en slaaibare die norm geword het.

Maar baie skoolkafeteria bedien ook nog steeds wat die Departement van Onderwys noem "quotfan favourites", mozzarella -stokkies, hoender -tenders en burger -glyers onder hulle, en mdash vra ouers, skoolhoofde, sjefs en niewinsorganisasies om 'n groot poging te reël om die kafeteria -kultuur te verander.

'N Goeie eerste stap vir ouers wat wil hê dat hul kinders gesonder moet eet, is om saam met die skool die onbekende middagete-spyskaart van die stad aan te neem, met minder verwerkte voedsel, meer plantaardige opsies en geen bees- of varkvleis nie. word tans in etlike dosyne skole regoor die stad gebruik, het kenners gesê.

Ewe belangrik is om kinders te oortuig om die nuwe, gesonder kos op die spyskaart te probeer, het advokate gesê. Aangesien kinders meer geneig is om kos te proe nadat hulle gesien het hoe hulle gegroei het, kan gesinne skoolpogings ondersteun om tuine te begin, al is hulle hoe klein.

Ouers kan skole ook aanmoedig om saam te werk met niewinsorganisasies wat op voeding gebaseerde klasse ontwikkel het wat verband hou met tuinmaak, soos Edible Schoolyard NYC, of ​​groepe soos Wellness in the Schools (WITS), wat professionele opgeleide sjefs in die skoolkombuise bring.

Mary Lenz, 'n ouer by Greenwich Village 's P.S. 41, het aanvanklik gesukkel om ondersteuning op te bou toe sy vier jaar gelede probeer het om WITS ' -kook- en voedingsopvoedingsprogram by die skool te bring. Sy het ongeveer $ 12,000, oftewel die helfte van die koste van die program, op haar eie ingesamel.

Ek sou altyd by die boeremark gaan inkopies doen en dink: sou dit nie wonderlik wees as ons kinders so kos kon eet in plaas van wat uit 'n boks kom nie? 41, waar haar dogter nou in die vyfde klas is.

"Ons het nie besef hoe moeilik dit sou wees nie."

Sedertdien het die skool se welstandskomitee gegroei van 10 gereeld tot 50 en baie ouers waardeer die veranderinge op die spyskaart, het Lenz gesê.

Die komitee werk nou daaraan om meer kinders aan die gesonde aanbod te laat deelneem, en 'n uitdaging wat baie skole in die gesig staar.

U kan nie net kos verander nie en verwag dat kinders dit sal eet. Kinders is nie noodwendig aangetrokke tot gesonde dinge nie, 'het Kate Brashares, uitvoerende direkteur van Edible Schoolyard NYC, gesê, wat 'n' na-aan-tafel 'kurrikulum skep.

"Dit is duidelik dat die kos beter moet proe," het sy bygevoeg. Dit is van fundamentele belang om gedrag te verander en eetgedrag te doen op 'n manier wat positief is.

Hier is hoe plaaslike groepe skoolkos probeer verander en kinders laat eet:

1. Gebruik die alternatiewe spyskaart en bring kookkuns terug na die kafeteria's van die skool.

Die stad se alternatiewe spyskaart, wat in 2011 bekendgestel is, word tans in slegs 82 van die stad se ongeveer 1800 openbare skole gebruik.

Voedselvoorstanders verkies dit omdat dit meer maaltye behels wat van nuuts af gemaak word in plaas van verwerk, soos gebraaide hoender en gebakte tofu met rys en vegetariese chili.

Daar is ook 'n aparte vegetariese spyskaart wat gebruik word in Flushing's P.S. 244.

Ouers moet met hul skoolhoof praat oor die gebruik van die alternatiewe spyskaart, aangesien dit die besluit is om dit te implementeer.

Volgens die DOE -amptenare kos die alternatiewe spyskaart ongeveer dieselfde as die gewone spyskaart.

"Daar is baie meer regte kos op die spyskaart," het Reana Kovalcik, ontwikkelingskoördineerder van WITS, 'n organisasie wat in 2005 gestig is deur ouers wat wou hê dat hul kinders gesonder kos moes eet, gesê.

"Die wonderlike ding is dat ons die kos kan ruik."

WITS werk saam met ongeveer 60 skole en pas hulle drie jaar lank by professionele sjefs deur middel van sy Cook for Kids -program. WITS vereis dat hierdie skole die alternatiewe spyskaart gebruik.

"Daar is geen manier om oor gesonde eetgewoontes en bestanddele te praat nie en om 'n kind 'n mozzarella -stokkie te bedien," het Kovalcik gesê.

SchoolFood het onlangs Azodicarbonamide & mdash, 'n chemikalie wat as deegversorger in brood gebruik word, ook uit die produkte verwyder. Dit verbied ook kunsmatige kleure en geure, sowel as 'n aantal ekstra kunsmatige bestanddele, vetvervangers, preserveermiddels en kafeïen, het amptenare van die DOE gesê.

Kovalcik het aangeraai dat ouers dring daarop aan dat 'n volledige lys bestanddele aanlyn gepubliseer word vir elke gereg wat aan hul kind bedien word.

& quot

2. Huur sjefs aan om skoolkokke op te lei.

Een manier om die kwaliteit van die voedsel in skole te verbeter, is om nuwe kookvaardighede aan die kokke te leer.

WITS ' Cook for Kids-program, wie se uitvoerende sjef Bill Telepan met 'n Michelin-ster is, bring gegradueerdes van die beste kookskole bymekaar om saam met skoolvoedselpersoneel te werk, en help met die ontwikkeling van resepte en opleiding in basiese kookkuns wat nodig is om die resepte uit te voer.

Een van die tegnieke wat die sjefs leer, is mise en place, die voorbereiding om groente in blokkies te sny en in aparte bakke te sit voordat dit begin kook.

Een van die sjefs van die groep, Ivan Beacco, van die Italiaanse restaurant Acqua in die South Street Seaport, het onlangs 'n goeie opleiding in mesvaardighede vir skoolvoedselpersoneel gedoen, het Kovalcik gesê.

"Hulle bring kulinêre [vaardighede] terug na die kafeteria," het Kovalcik gesê. En dit beteken nie squashrisotto of gesmoorde konyn nie. Dit beteken nie dat ons elitisties is nie. Ons praat net van regte kos, nie van kos nie. & Quot

WITS bied 'n driejaarprogram vir deelnemende skole aan, met sjefs wat die eerste jaar byna elke dag in die kafeteria-kombuis help. Die program kos altesaam $ 50,000, maar byna alle deelnemende skole ontvang subsidie ​​van WITS.

3. Laat kinders kos groei, selfs al is dit nie 'n groot tuin nie.

As kinders sien dat boerenkool uitloop of wortels uit die aarde grawe, is dit meer geneig om vars groente te probeer, sê advokate, en daarom fokus baie groepe nou op die opstel van kleinskaalse, goedkoop voedselverbouingsprogramme in skole.

Daar is 436 geregistreerde skooltuine deur Grow to Learn NYC, bestuur deur stadsagentskappe en GrowNYC, wat toesig hou oor die stad se groenmarkte. Tuine kan gedeeltelik befonds word deur Grow to Learn's $ 500 tot $ 2,000 mini -toelaes, met die volgende aansoekronde wat in Februarie betaal moet word.

Skole kan tuine hê, selfs sonder 'n groot, sonnige buitelugruimte.

Die Upper West Side P.S. 811, wat studente met spesiale behoeftes bedien, het onlangs twee hidroponiese torings ontvang wat boerenkool en Switserse chard uit die pre-K-klaskamers uitloop.

Die torings, wat gloeilampe en water gebruik om binnenshuise plante sonder grond te kweek, kos ongeveer $ 1 000 elk en is deel van 'n program wat WITS aan die stuur is en hoop om volgende jaar na bykans 'n dosyn ander skole uit te voer.

"Nie alle skole het dakke of uitsparings vir tuine nie," het Kovalcik gesê. Die toring kan ook buite gaan as u 'n wonderlike, sonnige buiteluggebied het. Indien nie, kan in 'n klaskamer of kafeteria wees. & Quot

Edible Schoolyard NYC, wat twee buitenshuise tuine in stadskole het en nog drie byvoeg, skep ook 'n nuwe kleiner model wat goedkoper en minder arbeidsintensief sal wees, in die hoop om 'n nuwe netwerk van byna 30 te skep tuine by skole.

Die program sal na verwagting deelnemende skole in April identifiseer en die tuine in September begin.

"Ons glo regtig dat as u groei of dit sien groei en daaraan raak, u dit sal eet," het Brashares gesê.

Navorsing bevind dat kinders wat 'n konstante verbinding met 'n tuin het, meer bereid is om nuwe dinge te probeer, het Jessie Kerr-Vanderslice, van Grow to Learn, gesê.

"Dit verander die manier waarop u u gedra wanneer u 'n mark binnekom, of wat u vra as u tuis is," het sy gesê. & quot Dit is eenvoudige dinge, maar dit maak groot verskille in gedrag. & quot

4. Leer kinders kook.

Voedsel maak ook dat kinders meer geneig is om dit te eet, sê advokate.

'n Kind wat ['n sekere ete] nege keer in die [eetkamer] geïgnoreer het, het dit toe vir die 10de keer self in die laboratorium gemaak, en nou het hulle heeltemal daarin geslaag, "het Kovalcik gesê oor 'n seisoenale kookklas waar kinders maak 'n gereg met vars kos uit die plaas.

Die NY Coalition for Healthy School Food, waarvan die voedingsopvoedingsplan, "Food UnEarthed" in vier skole gebruik word, bevat 'n handvol kosvoorbereidings waar kinders dinge kan maak soos roermengsel, guacamole en plantaardige sushi-rolle.

Amie Hamlin, die uitvoerende direkteur van die organisasie, het gesê dat die ontwikkeling van gesonde eetgewoontes 'n belangrike les is vir kinders om jonk te leer.


Culinary SOS: Upper West se gebraaide groenteburger

Geagte SOS: Het u die gebraaide groenteburger in Upper West in Santa Monica probeer? As jy nie het nie, moet jy. Dit is sonder twyfel die beste groenteburger op aarde. Sal graag wil sien of die Los Angeles Times Test Kitchen met die resep vorendag kan kom.

Beste Carly: Upper West se weergawe van die groenteburger is 'n heerlike kombinasie van bestanddele, verpak in 'n ruim pattie en tot in die volste gebraai. Bedien met 'n dik, rokerige tamatie-aioli, geroosterde piquillo-soetrissies, gesnyde avokado en 'n dik, soet tert pynappelversiering, dit is 'n burger wat selfs 'n beker kan maak van die vurigste vleisliefhebber (ten minste tydelik).

Upper West se groenteburgers

Totale tyd: Ongeveer 3 uur, plus afkoeltye

Let wel: Aangepas uit Upper West in Santa Monica. Sny die groente en kaas met die versnipperstuk op 'n voedselverwerker, 'n rasper kan ook gebruik word. Vloeibare rook is beskikbaar by die meeste goed gevulde supermarkte. Geroosterde piquillo-rissies, verpak in flesse of blikkies, is beskikbaar in fynproewersmarkte en in uitgesoekte supermarkte.

2 1/2 teelepels vars tiemie

1 eetlepel plus 1 teelepel gedroogde oregano

1 teelepel ekstra suiwer olyfolie

2 tamaties, in die lengte gehalveer

1 1/4 teelepels vloeibare rook

In 'n groot bak, meng die tiemie, oregano en olie. Voeg die tamaties by en meng om te meng. Verhit 'n rooster (of roosterpan) oor medium hoë hitte tot warm. Rooster die tamaties tot sag, ongeveer 4 tot 5 minute, afhangende van die hitte. Verwyder die tamaties in 'n blender en pols tot glad. Meng die saggemaakte tamaties met die vloeibare rook en mayonnaise in 'n groot bak en meng goed om te meng. Geur na smaak met sout. Dit maak ongeveer 2 koppies aioli, meer as wat nodig is vir die resep wat die aioli 1 week lank onder bedek en verkoel hou.

1 pynappel, geskil, ontkern en in skywe van ¼ duim gesny

1/2 koppie blokkies jalapenos (van ongeveer 6 jalapenos), of na smaak

1 1/4 koppie witwynasyn

1/4 koppie plus 2 eetlepels heuning

Verhit 'n rooster of roosterpan oor matige hoë hitte tot warm. Smeer met 'n dun lagie olie, voeg dan die pynappelskywe by en rooster tot mooi verkool, 2 tot 4 minute aan elke kant. Verkoel die pynappel en sny dit dan in stukke van 'n kwart tot 'n half duim. Meng die pynappel, ui, jalapeno, asyn, water, heuning, suiker en sout in 'n groot kastrol oor lae hitte en kook tot byna al die vloeistof verdamp is, ongeveer 45 minute, af en toe roer. Verkoel, onbedek, op 'n afgeronde bakplaat in die yskas. Dit maak 4 koppies lekker, meer as wat nodig is vir die resep wat die lekkernye tot 2 weke kan hou, bedek en verkoel.

Veggie hamburgers en samestelling

1 groot (of 1½ medium) geel muurbal, gerasper

1 groot (of 1½ medium) courgette, gerasper

1 eetlepel gemaalde komyn

1 teelepel gemaalde geel kerriepoeier

2 teelepels kosher sout, meer na smaak

Skaars ¾ teelepel swartpeper

1 1/4 koppies gekookte swartbone

2 eetlepels plus 2 teelepels sojasous

2/3 koppie gerasperde Cheddarkaas

1 1/3 koppie panko (Japanse) broodkrummels

Gesnyde geroosterde piquillo -peper

Hamburgerbroodjies, verkieslik brioche

1. In 'n groot braaipan, kombineer die ui, knoffel, wortel, pampoen en courgette met die wyn oor medium hoë hitte. Kook die mengsel tot die groente sag is en die vloeistof meestal geabsorbeer word, 12 tot 14 minute.

2. Roer die komyn by, kerriepoeier, sout, swartpeper, hawer en swartbone. Hou aan om te kook, terwyl jy stadig roer, vir nog 5 minute om die geure te ontwikkel. Verwyder van hitte en laat eenkant om af te koel.

3. In 'n groot bak, klits die eier en sojasous saam, voeg dan die kaas en panko krummels by. Voeg die afgekoelde groentemengsel by en roer goed om te meng.

4. Verdeel die mengsel eweredig in 6 heuwels. Druk elke heuwel saam en vorm 'n patty. Bestrooi die pasteitjies liggies met meel.

5. Verhit 'n rooster of groot braaipan oor medium hoë hitte. Smeer met 'n bietjie olie en voeg dan die patties by (moenie dit te veel meng nie). Braai tot bros en donkerbruin aan elke kant en die middel gaar is, sowat 5 minute. Die tydsberekening sal afhang van die hitte van die rooster of pan, bedek die rooster of pan met 'n deksel sodat die middel kook saam met die buitekant van die hamburgers. Hou die hamburgers warm totdat alles gaar is.

6. Om elke burger saam te stel: Smeer die binnekant van elke kant van die broodjie met 2 eetlepels tamatie -aioli, of na smaak. Plaas 'n hamburger op die onderste broodjie en bedek dit dan met 'n besprenkeling piquillo -soetrissies. Bedek met gesnyde avokado, bedek dan met 3 eetlepels pynappelrissie, of na smaak. Plaas die boonste broodjie op elke burger. Bedien dadelik.

Elke saamgestelde burger: 877 kalorieë 22 gram proteïen 91 gram koolhidrate 12 gram vesel 47 gram vet 15 gram versadigde vet 157 mg cholesterol 16 gram suiker 1.186 mg natrium.

SOS -AANVRAE: Stuur Culinary SOS -versoeke na [email protected] of Culinary SOS, Food -afdeling, Los Angeles Times, 202 W. 1st St., Los Angeles, CA 90012. Gee u naam, telefoonnommer en woonplek.

Kry ons weeklikse nuusbrief Tasting Notes vir resensies, nuus en meer.

U kan af en toe promosie -inhoud van die Los Angeles Times ontvang.

Noelle Carter is die voormalige direkteur van Los Angeles Times Test Kitchen. Sy het in Januarie 2019 vertrek.


Dominikaanse restaurante: 'n nuwe maat in Nueva York

VERSOEKING, nie rys en boontjies nie, is die spesialiteit van nuwe, florerende nuwe Dominikaanse restaurante in New York. By El Lina in Inwood woel verleidelike geure van die deur af, wat die beskeie eetplek maklik vind. Stap af by die nommer 1 -trein by die 207th Street -stasie en ry dan in die rigting van die wolk knoffel, koljander en groenrissie. El Lina, een blok wes, is die winkelvenster met die deurdringende jukebox en die Versailles -spieëlsaal.

Binne sit 'n Karibiese Lollobrigida met 'n merengue ritme op die spyskaart en glimlag. Tweede maaltye gee 'n glimlag en 'n knipoog. Gereelde, in elk geval die gelukkiges, kry die werk: 'n uitbundige & quotHola, mi amor & quot en 'n groot drukkie.

"Dominikaanse kelnerinne is flirterig, en die beste kan die etenstafel drie rye diep saam met bewonderaars pak," sê Bruno Aguancha, 'n gewone Lina, terwyl hy 'n mojito -sous van rou knoffel, limoen en olyfolie oor sy skottel sissende gebraaide plantains drup. . & quot Maar wat jou getrou hou, is natuurlik die kos. & quot

Met 'n skeut Karibiese gees en 'n paar eersteklas kookkuns, het ondernemende immigrante uit die Dominikaanse Republiek die Latynse kookkuns in New York opgekikker en bekende rys-en-boontjieverbindings in die buurte van Park Slope in Brooklyn tot by die Upper West Side in Manhattan opgegradeer . Net soos met New Yorkse bodega's en supermarkte in die buurt, het Dominikaanse ondernemers stadige plaaslike maaltye en middagete aangeskaf en dit dan verander in blink, suksesvolle ondernemings.

Meer as 500 000 Dominikane woon in die New York-streek, wat hulle die tweede grootste Spaanse groep maak, na Puerto Ricane. Die meerderheid van hierdie Dominikane het in die 1970's en 80's gekom. Yvonne Ortiz, 'n sjef en stigterslid van die Association of Hispanics in Food Service, het gesê dat baie van hierdie eerste-generasie Dominikaners arbeidsintensiewe ondernemings betree wat ander meer gevestigde Spaanse groepe ontgroei het.

"Die meeste Puerto Ricans hier is die tweede, derde of vierde generasie," het sy gesê. Die Puerto Ricaan wat al twintig jaar in die voedselbedryf sukkel, is nou afgetree, en sy seuns en dogters is prokureurs. & quot

Dominikaanse diners en middagete - hulle heet in Spaans fondas - floreer in alle stadsdele, en veral in Washington Heights, waar Broadway blykbaar 'n glansryke verlengstuk van die hoofweg van Santo Domingo, die Malecon, geword het. Maar elders was die Dominikaanse oorname van die fondas stil. Baie van die kliënte, Spaans en nie-Spaans, wat gewilde eetplekke soos El Lina, of Casilda 's of Las Marcias, albei in Amsterdamlaan in Manhattan, besoek, het geen idee dat hul romerige sancochosop, gepaneerde gebakte steaks nie en peperige gebraaide hoender is Dominikaans, nie Kubaanse of Puerto Ricaanse nie.

"Ons noem ons nie 'n Dominikaanse restaurant nie, want ons wil 'n beroep op alle nasionaliteite doen," het Humberto Pichardo gesê, wat saam met sy vrou, Marcia, Las Marcias in Amsterdamlaan 588 (88ste straat) besit. Sowel die Las Marcias ' -spyskaart as die bord van die winkel toon die legende wat die meeste Dominikaanse restaurante geniet: Spaanse en Amerikaanse kos.

Maar daar is geen twyfel oor die Dominikaanse aanraking nie. "Jy kan amper die geure van my land voel," het Andres Hernandez, 'n sjef en eienaar van La Sarten in Amsterdamlaan 564 (87ste straat) gesê, terwyl hy sy vingerpunte aanmekaar vryf asof hy dit uit die niet wou toor. & quot Ahh! die knoffel, die uie, oregano. . . & quot

Die Dominikaanse repertoire van hartige bredies, liggies gebraaide steaks en gebraaide en gebraaide seekos, vergesel van rys, plantains en rooi boontjies, is soortgelyk aan die kookkuns in die hele Latyns -Karibiese Eilande, veral in Kuba, het mnr. Hernandez gesê. Maar daar is 'n belangrike verskil. "Kubaanse kos is nader aan Spanje," het hy gesê. & quotDominikaanse kookkuns, nes ons mense, is nader aan Afrika. & quot

Die Afrikaanse erfenis van die Dominikaanse Republiek kan geniet word in elke lepel vol sancocho, die ryk geel-oranje sop gemaak van hoender, beesvleis, bok of vark (soms al die bogenoemde). Aardige, geurige stukke Wes -Afrikaanse jams, saam met verskeie ander verwante variëteite wortelgroente (wat in Dominikaans Spaans genoem word), verdik hierdie maaltyd in 'n bak. 'N Porsie sancocho, versier met wit rys en vars skywe avokado, is 'n ritueel van Sondagmiddag in Santo Domingo, en die gewoonte beweeg noordwaarts.

Pablo Rosado, die sjef by Sugar Reef, die gewilde Karibiese restaurant in die East Village, het nie-Dominikane geleer om die eksotiese bestanddele van sancocho te waardeer. "Die yams, die name, die yuca en die yautia is vreemd vir Amerikaners, maar heerlik as jy dit eers probeer," het hy gesê. "So, in die middestad sny ek die viveres in kleiner stukkies, sodat hulle nie so intimiderend is nie."

Die 32-jarige mnr. Rosado, wat 'n bofbalpet verkies bo die tradisionele sjef, is 'n voorbeeld van nog 'n belangrike Dominikaanse kulinêre staatsgreep. Tien jaar gelede het baie van die Dominikane wat na die Verenigde State geëmigreer het, werk gekry in die restaurantbedryf in New York. Soos mnr. Rosado, 'n gegradueerde van 'n kookskool in Santo Domingo wat as 'n busboy in New York begin werk het, het hulle onderaan begin werk. Vandag het baie van hierdie talentvolle Dominikaanse kokke sleutelspelers geword in restaurante in New York.

"Net omtrent alle restaurante in New York het 'n Dominikaan in die kombuis," het mnr. Rosado gesê en bygevoeg dat die invloed van sy kookkuns buite die Latynse gemeenskap versprei het. Dominikaners, het hy beweer, het 'n natuurlike talent met kos, ongeag die styl van die kombuis. "Ek het nog nooit 'n slegte Dominikaanse kok gesien nie," het hy gesê. Ons is kreatief, ons probeer graag nuwe dinge. Gee 'n resep vir 'n Dominikaanse sjef, en hy sal dadelik daarmee begin speel en uitvind hoe hy dit beter kan laat smaak. & Quot

Kulinêre vindingrykheid en vaardigheid skitter selfs in beskeie Dominikaanse restaurante. Sommige van hierdie plekke, weinig meer as koffiewinkels, lewer verstommend goeie maaltye, met oorspronklike geregte wat nie op die spyskaart van 'n neiging-toonaangewende Manhattan-restaurant sou val nie. En dit alles teen ongelooflike lae pryse ($ 20 tot $ 25 vir aandete vir twee, met bier).

By El Lina vaar die basiese beginsels, 'n seker toets van enige kombuis, goed. Wit rys kom in klein, berigagtige berge wat glinster met 'n ligte laag olyfolie. Bone, rooi, swart of wit, is pragtig en vertroostend. Pescado Lina - gebraaide koningvis - was vars en klam, eenvoudig gekruid met 'n sous van suurlemoen, botter, knoffel en paprika.

Spesialiteite van El Lina, avonture in die kreoolse kruisbestuiwing hou nog meer verrassings in. Die huishoender word byvoorbeeld liggies gebraai in 'n Oosterse oestersous. En die spesiale voorgereg van El Lina, 'n lekker gebakte bol gemaalde vleis en meel genaamd quipe, is 'n Dominikaniseerde weergawe van die Arabiese kibbee. In die aanpassing van El Lina vervang die Indiese mieliemeel van die nuwe wêreld die tradisionele gebarste koring, en Iberiese groen olywe bied 'n onortodokse vulsel. By die eet van El Lina eet maaltye die koloniale geskiedenis van die Spaanse Karibiese Eilande in 'n enkele happie.

Soos dit blyk, is El Lina 'n Aspoestertjie wat wegkruip agter 'n glaswinkel en 'n Formica -toonbank. Die eienaar en sjef, Santiago Quezada, en sy broer Onesimo, die hoofbediende, behoort aan die gesin wat 20 jaar lank die Pez Dorado, 'n bekende restaurant in Santiago, die Dominikaanse Republiek se tweede grootste stad, bestuur het. Voordat hulle vyf jaar gelede na New York gekom en El Lina geopen het, is die Quezada -broers deur hul pa, die sjef by Pez Dorado, onderrig in die ingewikkeldhede van die Dominikaanse kookkuns, wat in Santiago 'n sterk Chinese en Siriese invloed behou, danksy immigrasie van hierdie lande in die vroeë deel van die 20ste eeu.

Alhoewel hulle in 207th Street, ver van die viersterreine van New York, gevestig het, handhaaf die Quezadas hul standaarde. "Ons rys is nooit droog nie, want ons berei dit in 'n bano de Marie voor," het Onesimo Quezada trots gesê met verwysing na die dubbelkoker-tegniek wat gewoonlik gebruik word vir elegante Spaanse vla. Mnr. Quezada het homself 'n oomblik verskoon om die water in die halfleë bekers van 'n tafel naby te vul, 'n beweging wat hy uitgevoer het met 'n matador wat floreer.

Mnr. Hernandez van La Sarten het gesê dat dit moeilik is vir Dominikaanse nuwelinge om die nodige kapitaal te kry om die soort restaurante oop te maak wat werklik 'n vertoonvenster vir Dominikaanse kookkuns kan bied.

"Dit is 'n rowwe onderneming," het hy gesê. Ons kos het die potensiaal om in die middel van die stad te wees. Ek wil hê dit moet wees. Dit is net 'n kwessie om af te werk. & Quot

In die tussentyd floreer die Dominikaanse restaurateurs in hul Latynse eetmark in New York deur hul eetplekke op klein skaal en informeel te hou en hul kostes laag te hou. En sommige, soos El Lina, word reeds legendaries.

By die toonbank van El Lina vertel Bruno Aguancha hierdie storie: & quot Die ander dag was ek in 'n taxi, en die bestuurder draai skielik om en sê vir my: Luister man, weet jy wat 'n vrou gelukkig maak? Jy neem haar uit vir Pescado Lina! ' & quot

Hy het gelag en daarop gewys dat die woord vir gelukkig in Spaans ook inhoud kan beteken, vervul of tevrede, 'n taalekonomie wat begin sin maak oor die laaste soet koppie espresso aan die einde van 'n Dominikaanse maaltyd. Steekproefneming van die tarief

DIT is een van die interessantste Dominikaanse restaurante in New York, wat hier per woonbuurt gereël word:

LA SARTEN Amsterdamlaan 564 (87ste straat), Manhattan (212) 787-6448. Met sy pienk tafellinne en rustige baksteenmure, is La Sarten die mees eksklusiewe en hoofstroom van die nuwe Dominikaanse plekke. Die kos-die eienaars noem dit "Spaans-Karibiese kookkuns"-is 'n ligter weergawe van die tradisionele Dominikaanse kos, soms met 'n draai, soos rooibroodjie in 'n Karibiese-Oosterse gemmersous.

LAS MARCIAS Amsterdamlaan 588 (88ste straat), Manhattan (212) 595-8121. Te blink en elegant om 'n koffiewinkel te wees ('n blommevaas versier elke vlekkelose tafel met plastiekbedekking en daar is 'n vol kroeg), maar tog te informeel om 'n restaurant te wees (daar is 'n toonbank), kenmerk Marc Marcias nuwe ras Dominikaanse restaurante. Die lys van daaglikse spesiale aanbiedinge bevat moeilik geregte soos habichuelas blancas, witbone in 'n sous wat met pampoen verdik is. Die flan con queso, 'n fluweelagtige blokkie halfpad tussen 'n vla en 'n kaaskoek, is 'n tipiese Dominikaanse nagereg.

CASILDA 'S Amsterdamstraat 764 (97th Street), Manhattan (212) 864-5648. Op 'n Vrydagaand stroom merengue en salsa uit die klankstelsel, terwyl enorme skottelgoed chivo guisado (bok gestoof met tamatie, groenpeper en speserye), rys, bone en plantains uit die kombuis vaar. Die kwaliteit van die voorgeregte wissel van nag tot nag, maar Casilda se getroue, luidrugtige klante kom nie in die gedagte nie. Funky en bedrywig, Casilda is nie net 'n eetplek nie, dit is ook 'n toneel: die tipiese Latynse eetplek.

EL LINA RESTAURANT 500 West 207th Street, Manhattan (212) 567-5031. Slegs 'n reis na die Dominikaanse Republiek bied 'n beter inleiding tot die nasie se kookkuns. 'N Bordjie El Lina ' s gekookte wit rys, koljandergeurige rooibone en ligte, feitlik vetlose goue klippe (gebraaide plantains) is 'n opstel in die Karibiese estetika.

TU CASA RESTAURANT 4405 Broadway (188th Street), Manhattan (212) 740-3245. Tu Casa, 'n groot paleis in 'n disko-grootte met spieëls op die plafon, is die nuutste en mees ambisieuse Dominikaanse restaurant in Washington Heights. Naglewe, nie kos nie, is hoekom Tu Casa die stad is, 'n vol kroeg, 'n dansvloer en lewendige musiek. Die kombuis en diens, nog steeds 'n bietjie wankelrig, moet die atmosfeer inhaal.

LA TERRAZA 82 Sixth Avenue (Flatbush Avenue), Park Slope, Brooklyn (718) 783-5368. Die afgelope paar jaar het verskeie goedkoop en baie goeie Dominikaanse etenstafel in hierdie woonbuurt ontstaan, maar La Terraza, 'n nou kamer met 'n toonbank en vyf tafels, is opvallend. Onder die topgeregte is sopa de camarones, 'n ruim porsie garnale in 'n visbouillon met koriander.


Verwante artikels

Die beste Israeliese restaurant is op die mees verrassende plek in Amerika

Nie net bagels, lox en gefilte nie: wat in 2019 as Joodse kos beskou word

Waarom wil almal skielik ertjies kweek? Hierdie Israeliete ken die antwoord

Admony het grootgeword in Bnei Brak, 'n swaar ultra-ortodokse stad net buite Tel Aviv, en het na die kookskool in Israel gegaan. Sy was al sowat 15 jaar aan die voorpunt van die Israeliese voedseltoneel in New York. Alhoewel sy aanvanklik drome gehad het om lekker te eet, was Taim [Hebreeus vir & ldquotasty & rdquo] die eerste plek wat sy in 2005 geopen het, 'n gat-in-die-muur, vyfstoel-falafelplek in die West Village. Vandag het dit 'n ketting geword wat onlangs buite New York uitgebrei het en sy eerste Washington -plek langs die kus oopgemaak het.

Balaboosta, haar tweede restaurant, het in 2010 in Nolita geopen, maar het verlede jaar na die West Village oorgeskakel. Daar, sê Admony, hou sy daarvan om verskillende maniere te wys om blomkool te maak. Elke paar weke verander ek my blomkool, en sy sê. U moet weet hoe u hierdie bestanddele moet neem en dit kan verhef op 'n manier wat mense sal verlei. & rdquo

Tans bied Balaboosta die beroemde Bamba -blomkool aan Admony en rsquos, 'n gereg wat in 'n ander restaurant gebore is, en die nou gesluit Bar Bolonat. Terwyl sy by die braaiplek van die kombuis staan, gryp sy 'n handvol blomkoolblommetjies en doop dit in glansende wit rysmeelbeslag en bedek dit so mildelik dat dit moeilik is om hul oorspronklike vorm te sien. Die fyn stukke word dan diep gebraai. As hulle 'n paar minute later uit hul warm oliebad kom, word hulle goudbruin.

'N Blomkoolgereg by Balaboosta in New York. Gili Getz

Admony gooi dan die stukke in 'n groot bak, voeg geursel en suurlemoenskil by. Sy plaas die blommetjies versigtig op 'n ovaal keramiekbord met blou blomme en bedek dit met haar tuisgemaakte grondboontjie -tahini -sous. En dan kom die laaste aanraking: 'n sprinkel fyngemaakte Bamba, die geliefde Israeliese snack. Die resultaat is 'n ryk, knapperige hap wat net so verslawend raak soos 'n sak springmielies in die bioskoop, maar met 'n Midde -Oosterse skop.

Die blomkool waarop ek grootgeword het, is gebraai, soos schnitzel, en sy vertel vir Haaretz. En daar was altyd tahini by die huis en mdash het my ma tahini langs die blomkool gemaak. & rdquo

Die nuwe boek van Admony & rsquos kyk ook nie oor die groente uit nie. It has at least four cauliflower recipes in it: the Bamba version a roasted one with lemon garlic and parsley a whole cauliflower &ldquoburied in Embers&rdquo and spice-crusted grilled cauliflower &ldquosteaks&rdquo (slabs of the whole vegetable).

The new kale

It is hard to find an Israeli restaurant in New York that doesn&rsquot serve cauliflower. But many other non-Israeli chefs have been giving cauliflower some love in recent years, too. &ldquoIt&rsquos the trendiest, hottest vegetable,&rdquo says food writer and entrepreneur Jeffrey Yoskowitz. &ldquoMaybe 10 or 12 years ago it was kale, then it was brussels sprouts and now it&rsquos cauliflower.&rdquo

He explains that like kale and brussels sprouts, cauliflower is part of the Brassica family of vegetables (also known as mustards). It also includes cabbage and broccoli, which Yoskowitz says &ldquonever quite had this moment.&rdquo

&ldquoIt has a creaminess and meatiness to it,&rdquo he says of the humble cauliflower. &ldquoIt can caramelize as it browns, and when you add seasoning it can take on these flavors really nicely.&rdquo Yoskowitz attributes its popularity to its &ldquomellow&rdquo taste, which makes it &ldquoincredibly versatile&rdquo and &ldquovery open to flavor.&rdquo

Israeli chefs, he adds, have had a key role in helping push the vegetable forward as Israeli food started trending in New York. &ldquoAnd it coincides so nicely with the sort of plant-focused, vegetable-forward outlook that so much of the North American food scene has been taking,&rdquo he says. &ldquoIt all seems to be coming together so nicely, and now cauliflower finds itself at the center of the party.&rdquo

Yoskowitz also points out that cauliflower has assumed a functional role for gluten-free and other low-carb diets. Supermarkets in the United States now sell bags of &ldquoriced cauliflower,&rdquo a side dish alternative to rice, and some pizza restaurants have even introduced cauliflower crusts to satisfy the cravings of customers with celiac disease. &ldquoYou could have cauliflower in so many different aspects of the meal,&rdquo says Yoskowitz. That&rsquos how &ldquothe cauliflower has remained an important dish whereas kale has faded.&rdquo

The &lsquoKing of Cauliflower&rsquo

It would be difficult to talk about cauliflower without mentioning Israeli celebrity chef Eyal Shani. His World Famous Baby Cauliflower, as the dish is called on the menu of his Miznon restaurants, has captivated diners and food critics worldwide, earning him the title &ldquoKing of Cauliflower.&rdquo

Since he opened his first New York eatery in January 2018, local food sites and publications have raved about the dish: a cauliflower that fits in one hand, boiled, smeared with olive oil, and then oven roasted in its green leaves with a dash of sea salt, served wrapped in parchment paper.

Although he is credited for much of the cauliflower craze, sitting at his Miznon North restaurant on the Upper West Side, Shani admits the idea wasn&rsquot originally his but that of his business partner, Shahar Segal. &ldquoOne day he invited me for lunch at his house,&rdquo recounts Shani. &ldquoI get there and I ask him, &lsquoWhat did you make?&rsquo He answered nonchalantly: &lsquoOpen the oven.&rsquo&rdquo

Eyal Shani embracing baby cauliflowers at his Miznon North restaurant in New York. Danielle Ziri

&ldquoI open the oven. I see a whole golden cauliflower standing there like a crown that belongs in the Kingdom of Heaven or something,&rdquo he recalls. &ldquoI look at it and my heart starts pounding. And in that moment I understand everything: I understand that I&rsquom not the guy who found this. I understand that if I was given another two weeks, I would have come up with it &mdash I was very close to finding it. But Shahar was the first to do this, and I felt tremendous jealousy.&rdquo

But Shani also understood in that moment that although Segal had invented the dish, he didn&rsquot know &ldquohow to put a period at the end of this sentence&rdquo &mdash how to give it the final touches needed to take it beyond &ldquobeginner&rsquos luck&rdquo to something that can be replicated for a restaurant. &ldquoIt&rsquos the eternal question of who is the inventor: the person who created something, or the one who put the period?&rdquo he asks rhetorically. &ldquoI think the person who put the period and says &lsquoEureka!&rsquo is the inventor.&rdquo

The baby cauliflower used by Shani is not commonly sold in grocery stores. It is harvested after about only three months in the field. &ldquoIf you add two more weeks you get something double in size,&rdquo he explains. &ldquoSo for the industry it&rsquos more lucrative to wait.&rdquo Shani&rsquos cauliflowers are especially harvested at their smaller size at a local farm. In Israel, he buys about 17,000 cauliflowers a month from a farmer who produces them for his restaurants, where it is an extremely popular dish.

In the kitchen of Miznon North, Shani unwraps the cauliflowers carefully and places them in a tank of boiling water for about 7 minutes, enough time for them to soften without breaking apart. When they come out, the cauliflowers are dried &mdash and then comes the most challenging step: oiling.

&ldquoIf you put too little oil you are basically putting a dry product into the oven, and when the heat touches a dry product it gets these bad smells &mdash like a fishiness,&rdquo explains Shani. &ldquoIf you put too much oil, you&rsquoll fry it.&rdquo

Eyal Shani puts cauliflower into the oven at Miznon North in New York. Danielle Ziri

So what is the exact amount of oil to put on a baby cauliflower? Shani says the answer is still unknown. &ldquoIf you use a bottle to drizzle it, or a brush, it doesn&rsquot get to the right amount of oil,&rdquo he says. &ldquoBut I realized that my cooks, when we started doing this, they make an unnecessary movement on the cauliflower: They hug it with their hands &mdash a sort of display of affection to the cauliflower like you would do to a dog or a cat or even a baby.&rdquo

Shani massages the olive oil into the cauliflower with a gentle hugging touch, much like serum is meant to be applied to the skin. According to him, people have a natural instinct for knowing exactly how much olive oil to leave on their hands at the end of the process.

The roasting takes place in a bread oven at a very high temperature, until the baby vegetable is slightly burnt on the surface. Although it looks rough from the outside, the dish can be easily dug into with a spoon and the texture is surprisingly buttery.

A vegetable alternative to meat

&ldquoFrankly, I spent a lot of time in Israel over the years and until Eyal Shani and Miznon kind of made this whole roasted cauliflower into this whole trend, I don&rsquot remember cauliflower being that pervasive,&rdquo Yoskowitz says. According to him, Shani&rsquos cauliflower has a &ldquowow factor&rdquo that makes it special: &ldquoThere is something so shocking about seeing a whole head of cauliflower roasted and cooked this way. It&rsquos beautiful, it&rsquos stunning. Eyal Shani, if anything, understands the theatrical nature, the drama of eating.&rdquo

&ldquoGetting a whole head of roasted cauliflower, it makes it feel like you&rsquore eating something substantial, you&rsquore not just eating a vegetable side,&rdquo he adds. &ldquoIt makes it something that is a centerpiece of your meal.&rdquo

For Shani, the cauliflower is nothing less than an animal. &ldquoThe first understanding I had was that the cauliflower resembles a head, a brain,&rdquo he says. &ldquoIt&rsquos like I&rsquom selling the head of an animal without having killed one: It&rsquos a win-win.&rdquo

He expands on his theory: &ldquoWhen a woman sits at a table and eats or serves food, she behaves very differently than a man who eats or serves food. Women are very generous at the table: They divide their food between friends or family. With men, you don&rsquot see this generosity. You see it in only one situation: when a chunk of meat arrives to the table.

&ldquoThen, the man begins to divide it between the people. It&rsquos about control, about ego. But I noticed that when I put a whole cauliflower on the table, the man gets up and cuts it up for his friends: He treats it like meat. To me, that was the biggest win.&rdquo

Greatest impact

&ldquoThere is also something about cutting up vegetables that are served to you whole that also feels more like you&rsquore eating a meat entrée,&rdquo adds Yoskowitz. &ldquoThere is an element of bringing in the experience of eating meat, and vegetable-forward chefs are really trying to think about that without having to resort to the fake meat alternative.&rdquo

Yoskowitz believes the cauliflower has &ldquotransformed how we think of vegetables it really makes us take vegetables more seriously. I think that&rsquos what Shani really accomplished, that&rsquos the greatest impact he&rsquos had.&rdquo

Shani&rsquos cauliflower and the use of the vegetable by many Israeli chefs in New York has been warmly received by restaurant goers and food critics alike. In fact, every day Shani receives countless direct messages on Instagram from people who send him pictures of their homemade versions of the dish. &ldquoI knew it was a universal language,&rdquo he says with a smile.


New NYC Restaurants Opening This Fall

8/24/16 By Devra Ferst

Ready to have your most delicious season ever? Check out the rest of our Fall Preview to get dialed in to the best restaurants, cookbooks and more.

New York’s restaurant scene has taken some flack lately (even from us), but this fall, a massive batch of restaurants is poised to open from proven chefs and restaurateurs in unconventional neighborhoods: We’re talking an April Bloomfield steakhouse on the Upper West Side and a Tom Colicchio restaurant in FiDi. And a wave of Japanese restaurants that’s been waiting to crest on New York’s shores will finally start its arrival with the opening of ramen cult favorite Ichiran and an outpost of udon specialists TsuruTonTan.

Meanwhile, one of the city’s most beloved restaurants, Union Square Cafe, will return to us all, just a few blocks away from its original home—with a newly added side project we’re excited about.

Hope you’re hungry for fall. Here’s what’s on the menu.

Union Square Cafe 2.0: Danny Meyer’s iconic Union Square Cafe has been out of commission for several months while the team moved the glassware, plates and that iconic neon sign a few blocks away to the restaurant’s new home, which has a larger kitchen, room for a dedicated bakery, a private dining room and an adjacent space called Daily Provisions that will sell coffee, breakfast, rotisserie chicken and salad, and ultimately transition into a dining room where chef Carmen Quagliata will offer a nightly tasting menu. Keeping in line with Union Square Hospitality’s approach to tipping, gratuity will be included in all of the bills.

TBA by Dan Kluger: Kluger, who helped put ABC Kitchen on the map of culinary powerhouses in New York City, has been working on his own project for more than two years. Finally, this fall, diners will be able to get a taste of his greenmarket-focused cooking downtown.

White Gold: April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman are headed uptown for their butcher shop and restaurant, a casual steakhouse where steaks and vegetables sides are order à la carte. There will also be hot dogs, charcuterie that’s made in-house and—since the restaurant is open in the mornings𠅋reakfast sandwiches. In place of a Bloomfield signature burger, there will be her take on the bodega classic chopped cheese.

Italienne: Jared Sippel, who cooked at Colorado’s acclaimed Frasca Food and Wine and San Francisco’s Quince, moved to New York to work at Brooklyn Fare in Manhattan, but that restaurant never came to fruition. Now Sippel is opening his own restaurant focused on Northern Italy and Southern France. There’s a tasting menu-only dining room in the back and a more casual spot up front, which will serve an à la carte menu and small plates.

Nur: Israel-based chef and restaurateur Meir Adoni is teaming up with Gadi Peleg from Breads Bakery to open a modern Middle Eastern restaurant in prime Flatiron called Nur (meaning “light” in Hebrew and 𠇏lame” in Arabic) in October. The team promises to reinterpret street food from the region in a more refined way.

abcV: This vegetable focused restaurant from Jean-Georges Vongerichten had an elephant-esque gestation period (it was first teased in 2013 under another name). Now the team says it’s finally ready to make its debut. The 75-seat restaurant, right around the corner from ABC Kitchen, will serve vegan and vegetarian fare morning to night, as well as to-go. With any luck, it will be slightly easier to get into the mothership.

Fowler & Wells: The Financial District isn’t generally thought of as a dining destination, but that’s starting to change with the help of chefs like Tom Colicchio, who is opening a restaurant and bar in the refurbished 1883 building on Beekman Street. Colicchio and executive chef Bryan Hunt are taking inspiration from the fine dining restaurants from New York’s past—think beef Wellington and lobster thermidor made for the 21st century. The team is also operating The Bar Room, a cocktail bar at the base of the building’s nine-story atrium.

Augustine: King of the New York brasserie Keith McNally is opening an all-day restaurant in the Beekman downtown. The restaurateur has remained tight-lipped about the project, but the hotel’s website promises French classics made a touch lighter—think rotisserie and grillades. McNally’s a master of bringing France to New York, so expect a seriously French vibe.

Photo: Courtesy of Ichiran

Ichiran: In Japan, the ramen makers at Ichiran have a cult following. The restaurant specializes in tonkotsu, or a rich pork-based ramen with varying levels of chile oil added to the bowl, which can turn it red. The restaurant’s also known for its private dining carrels called ajishuchu, where phones are a no-no, so that all attention can be place on the bowl in front of you. And the team’s not taking any chance on ingredients, opening a 12,500-square-foot production facility right next door, ensuring the team can churn out 1,000 bowls of ramen a day.

Lalo: Regulars at El Rey have missed Gerardo Gonzalez, the chef whose inventive vegetable cooking made the tiny café a popular dinner destination. He left in April to start his own project, which makes its debut this fall in what was once the Chinatown karaoke bar Winnie’s. Gonzalez calls the food at his new spot “hippie Chicano” in an interview with Grub Street. Expect everything from a smoked sable scramble to mofongo to house-made tortillas with carnitas.

Harvey: Adam Leonti, whose name diners might recognize from Vetri in Philadelphia and locally from his project, Brooklyn Bread Lab, is opening his first solo restaurant in The Williamsburg Hotel. Of course, there will be lots of breads, pastas and grains worked into dishes like taleggio ravioli in vincotto with porcini dust and saffron risotto with hearts of palm and sunchokes.

Empellón: Alex Stupak has always been a downtown chef—he owns three restaurants south of 14th Street𠅋ut he’s headed to Midtown for his biggest project to date. Earlier this year, Stupak told us, "It’s aiming to be our mothership, so to speak." He’s promised that it will be a bit more refined than his Downtown spots, but he doesn’t envision it to be fine dining.

Harold’s Meat + Three: Harold Moore, who once helmed the much-missed Commerce, returns to the kitchen with his Southern-inspired meat and three spot. He’s updating the concept and cooking mains over a wood-fire grill to order, Grub Street reports. Expect crab au gratin and beer-can chicken. There will also be rice six ways, potatoes seven ways and a salad bar to round things out.

Ample Hills Creamery at DeKalb Market Hall | Photo: Miachel Breton

Made Nice: Daniel Humm and Will Guidara, the gents behind Eleven Madison Park and The NoMad are getting into the casual dining scene with this spot. Prices for dishes, which will change with the seasons, will top out around $15. There will also be a host of house-made sodas.

A/D/O: Claus Meyer, the Danish restaurateur who helped found Noma, didn’t come to New York to open one small restaurant. He’s already opened Agern and the Great Northern Food Hall in Grand Central. Next up is a restaurant in design incubator in Greenpoint with Aska’s Fredrik Berselius, Grub Street reports. Once open, the space will function as a café during the day and a casual restaurant in the evening.

Leuca: Andrew Carmellini’s newest restaurant plans to channel coastal southern Italy at Williamsburg’s very modern-looking William Vale Hotel. The menu’s still under wraps, but the kitchen has a wood-fired oven, so expect the dishes to have a modern rustic feel to them.

DeKalb Market Hall: Foragers Market founder Anna Castellani is aiming to make this Downtown Brooklyn market feel a bit like the Brooklyn take on L.A.’s hit Grand Central Market. That means there’s a mix of classic New York vendors, including the first-ever Brooklyn outpost of Katz’s deli, alongside newer favorites like Ample Hills ice cream and Vietnamese spot Bun-Ker. The market will be home to 40 vendors, so there should be something for everyone.

TBA by Seamus Mullen: Brooklyn Heights has long struggled as a restaurant neighborhood, but Tertulia’s Seamus Mullen may be able to help that once he opens his restaurant at the 1 Hotel Brooklyn Bridge late this fall, Grub Street reports. No word on the concept, but the food will have Mullen’s classic Spanish inflection.

Tim Ho Wan: Dinner at Michelin-starred restaurants often requires months of savings, but there are a few exceptions, including Tim Ho Wan, a Hong Kong-based dim sum chain. The team, led by chef Mak Kwai Pui, is opening in the East Village with some of their signature dishes like rice with Chinese sausage wrapped in lotus leaves and shrimp dumplings. There’s no word yet on exact prices, but a meal here shouldn’t break the bank.

TsuruTonTan Udon Noodle Brasserie: A wave of Japanese-based restaurants is in the process of cresting upon Manhattan right now. Riding that wave is udon specialist TsuruTonTan who has taken up residence in what was the longtime home of Union Square Cafe. The team will serve 35 different udon dishes at any given time, but they will rotate the options regularly including soups, curries and noodles tossed with caviar.

Chinese Tuxedo: While a handful of chefs and restaurateurs around the city are modernizing a number of China’s numerous cuisines, Manhattan’s Chinatown has largely been left out of that movement. Enter Eddy Buckingham (who in another life was Justin Timberlake’s personal mixologist) and Jeff Lam, who will open a modern, two-story Cantonese restaurant in what was once an opera house on Doyers Street.


Double Feature

Walk into April Bloomfield and Ken Friedman's five-month-old restaurant on Manhattan's Upper West Side, and you'll find a glowing case stacked with spectacularly marbled steaks&mdashthe kind you expect from this duo but maybe not from your neighborhood butcher. Further downtown on 19th Street, enter Union Square Cafe, and you'll come across Daily Provisions selling the same hearty loaves of bread served in the restaurant a broccoli melt with Manchego, lemon, chile and garlic during the lunchtime rush and some exceptional maple crullers&mdashif they haven't sold out yet.

Sights like these are becoming more common as a growing number of restaurants are opening with a little somethin' somethin' on the side, be it a bakery, café or butcher shop. In Los Angeles, at Curtis Stone's meat-centric spot, Gwen, it's a butcher counter that doubles as a sandwich destination layering slices of house-made charcuterie like mortadella, prosciutto di Parma and Genoa salami with racily hot pickled cherry pepper spread to be packed up and taken to the office or the beach (see the recipe).

It's easy to look at these endeavors as purely economical: Additional provisions sold during extended hours means chefs are able to foot rising costs. But there's more going on here. For the chefs, it's a chance to experiment with new ideas and support their growing empires. For the rest of us, these side hustles grant access to restaurant-quality ingredients to cook at home or snacks to nibble on throughout the day when these places would typically be closed. It's one more avenue for our increasingly food-obsessed country to get what we've come to expect: the best of the best at all hours of the day.

For Stone, Gwen's butcher shop is a return to his roots. "I've always loved that craft of butchery. It was my first job," he says. Opening the butcher shop also allowed him to age meat the way he wanted&mdashfor steaks, that's sometimes up to 80 days&mdashand source less common proteins, like grouse and woodcock.

The butcher counter at Gwen is stocked with familiar steaks and harder to find proteins. | Photo: Wonho Frank Lee

The counter and restaurant "work totally separately in one sense, but they hold hands constantly," the chef says in his distinct Aussie accent. "I understand why butcher shops become generic. If you buy five or six rabbits and they sit there for a few days, you think about buying them again." But with the restaurant kitchen just a few feet away, they are more likely to be turned into rilettes or a terrine that will appear as a special at the shop or on the dinner menu.

Diners can also stop by with cooking questions, like how to sous-vide a piece of meat, benefitting from the knowledge of both the butchers and the kitchen team, who will even prepare a sous-vide bag with aromatics for customers.

Bellecour's bakery offers sweets, breads and sandwiches. | Photo: Courtesy of Bellecour

For Gavin Kaysen, who recently opened French restaurant Bellecour and an adjoining bakery outside of Minneapolis, his side project allowed him to promote talent from within his team at his first restaurant, Spoon and Stable. "I wanted to help find a space where Diane [Yang] could showcase her talents as a pastry chef," Kaysen says. That space is a 250-square-foot bakery and café that has a line out the door from 7 a.m. until the team sells out of items like the 28-layer crepe cake, salmon tartine, ham and butter sandwiches, and coffee.

"The economics, for sure, is part of it," but it's also a way to let diners who were boxed out of reservations&mdashmore than 1,000 were made within the first 24 hours&mdashexperience what the restaurant is doing, he says, and that includes taking loaves of fresh-baked bread home for a meal.

Back in New York, Friedman was looking at renting commercial kitchen space as his team was struggling to find space within their existing restaurants to break down and grind meat for Bloomfield's legendary burgers. But, "Commercial commissary spaces, that's not something we know how to do," he explains. "[What] we know how to do is restaurants and bars. What if we had the opportunity to combine the two?" That's what he, Bloomfield and their partners, Erika Nakamura and Jocelyn Guest, did with White Gold, which handles the butchery for nearly all of the team's restaurants.

Nakamura and Guest sell familiar cuts of meat like a bone-in New York strip, as well as flank and hanger steaks, at the butcher counter and make sure nothing goes to waste by having the kitchen prepare lesser-known pieces like a velvet cut that may require a more skilled hand.

The crullers at Daily Provisions go fast. | Photo: Liz Clayman

Just like at Gwen, shoppers have the added bonus of access to a skilled group of cooks for culinary wisdom. "They're basically saying . . . we love meat, and we're really good at it," Sam Lipp, the director of operations at Union Square Cafe, says about the White Gold team. "Why not share that with our neighbors and community?"

Speaking about Daily Provisions, Lipp says there's "a constituent of people who love our food but don't have the hour. They have a half hour," he says. But "they get a little taste of what we're doing." And they get to take it home.


Italy produces more artichokes (carciofi) than any other country in the world, and Italians have enjoyed them in myriad delicious ways for centuries. From antipasti and salads to pasta and even the amaro Cynar, an artichoke-based digestif, carciofi are a versatile and celebrated ingredient in Italian cuisine.

Among the most well-known Italian artichoke dishes are several classics from Rome, where the seasonal vegetable is particularly important to local food traditions and the quality of the carciofi grown in the surrounding countryside is excellent, explained Fabio Parasecoli, Professor of Food Studies at NYU and a native Roman. Surely if you’ve been to the Eternal City in the spring, and/or follow any Rome-based foodies on Instagram, you’ve seen the gorgeous mounds of artichokes displayed in the markets and outside of restaurants.

In the US, chefs often use domestic artichokes in traditional Italian preparations, as well as reinterpretations of regional favorites and innovative plates that showcase the vegetable’s beauty and flavor. Here are four of our top picks for Italian restaurants serving up amazing artichoke dishes in NYC.

The Leopard at des Artistes
At the elegant, historic Upper West Side treasure The Leopard at des Artistes, chef Jordan Frosolone currently offers two weekly specials featuring artichokes. The first is a wonderfully fresh and bright salad consisting of fava beans, baby artichokes cooked in wine and lemon, chunks of young Pecorino Toscano, parsley, mint, and verdant extra virgin olive oil from Umbria. He describes the second as emblematic of Sardinia, made with farro pasta, lobster, artichokes, and bottarga, the dried, cured fish roe considered a delicacy from that island. The combination of the sweet lobster meat and the slightly bitter artichokes topped with the grated bottarga makes for a richly flavored yet still light primo piatto.

The Leopard at des Artistes: Artichoke, Lobster, and Bottarga pasta

Norma Gastronomia Siciliana
Norma chef and owner Salvatore Fraterrigo recalls eating artichokes in many different ways when he was growing up in Trapani on the west coast of Sicily. At his restaurant in Kips Bay, he chose to feature a carciofo ripieno (“stuffed artichoke”) that he learned to make from his mother and grandmother. “It’s a very simple, typical Sicilian dish, tied to the cucina povera (“peasant cooking”) tradition of not wasting anything,” said Fraterrigo. Whole artichokes are gently opened, filled with a mixture of bread crumbs, grated Pecorino Romano, parsley, extra virgin olive oil, salt, and pepper, and then cooked slowly in a pot over a low flame. The entire plump carciofo is perfect for sharing, and one of the most popular dishes at Norma.

Norma Gastronomia Siciliana

Bella Blu
Bella Blu has been an Upper East Side fixture for 25 years, and their antipasto of sautéed baby artichokes with pistachio and Parmigiano Reggiano has been a favorite among regulars for almost as long. The chef also makes delicate, decadent fresh ravioli di carciofi tossed in butter and topped with crushed pistachios, and frequently offers a striking special of whole artichokes baked in the oven with olive oil, basil, and mint.

Bella Blu: Artichoke special (cooked in the oven)

Trapizzino
Trapizzini are a relatively recent culinary creation, developed in Rome in 2008 by pizzaiolo Stefano Callegari. The tasty triangular-shaped pockets made with naturally leavened pizza dough are stuffed with classics from cucina romana, and have become a popular street food. At Trapizzino’s only US location on the Lower East Side, don’t miss the trapizzino filled with carciofi alla romana, “Roman-style artichokes” cooked with garlic, fresh mint, white wine, and olive oil. The restaurant also serves crispy carciofi alla giudia (“Jewish-style artichokes”), deep-fried baby artichokes with lemon, as an antipasto. [cover photo by Trapizzino]


Business Is Hot, but the Vibe Is Cool

WALL STREET has the jitters, but the New York restaurant industry has yet to stop riding its long bull market.

Chefs hoping to capitalize on their followings, like Ed Brown of the Sea Grill in Rockefeller Center and John Fraser of Compass, are opening their own places — Eighty One and Dovetail on the Upper West Side. Others, like April Bloomfield of Spotted Pig and Adam Shepard of Lunetta in Brooklyn, are out to fortify their reputations by expanding their holdings.

With Sam Mason at Tailor and Jehangir Mehta at Graffiti, imaginative pastry chefs who have brought a new kind of excitement to the end of a meal are opening small restaurants that give pride of place to desserts as well as savories, cementing a trend that began about a year ago.

Restaurateurs who have graced New York with some of its grander dining experiences are lavishing attention on drinks. Gray Kunz’s new venture will emphasize cocktails and the food to go with them. Wine bars are more abundant than ever, with new wine-focused ventures from Daniel Boulud, Alain Ducasse and Marco Canora.

Seasonal American menus predominate, but the city’s taste for new cuisines will expand to Africa, which is being given an attention-getting venue at Marcus Samuelsson’s Merkato 55 in the meatpacking district. And Lebanese food will move into a grand setting in the Flatiron district with the opening of Ilili.

Yet the most striking feature of the new season may be not what it offers, but what it doesn’t: Formality.

Imagine a crop of new restaurants without even one that strives for the high-gloss grandeur represented by Gordon Ramsay at the London last year, Del Posto the year before, or Per Se the year before that. Instead, plans are afoot to eventually bring burgers with Daniel Boulud’s brand to the Bowery.

All around town, bare tables have shed snowy linen, customers’ shirttails are hanging out as ties and jackets are left in the closet, flip-flops replace Ferragamo, and an assortment of small plates of food, often shared, fills in for traditional three-course dinners.

Even hotel dining is no longer the bastion of gleaming silver, tuxedoed waiters and elaborate folderol. In his new venture in the ornate Beaux-Arts palace of the St. Regis, Alain Ducasse said, he expects to set a very different tone than he did in 2001 when he opened in the Essex House. “In six years, style and expectations have changed,” he said. “You cannot present the same degree of formality.”

Where his restaurant in the Essex House was gilded, the décor at Adour, which will open in late fall, is merely silver. It will be in full view of the hotel’s Astor Court lobby restaurant, and will have a tiny bar with four seats and a small lounge near the entrance with a pared-down menu so a bite to eat instead of a three-hour dinner will be an option.

After years at the overwhelmingly formal Lespinasse, when Gray Kunz finally opened his own place in the Time Warner Center in 2004, it was more or less a brasserie. In a few weeks, he will move further away from old-fashioned trappings when he opens Grayz, a cocktail lounge with private party rooms in Midtown.

Of course, it would be premature to write an obituary for elegance based on a single season. A few chefs still want to present their cooking in settings they believe befit their seriousness. But they are becoming scarcer by the minute. The death of Brooke Astor of the white kid gloves may turn out to be a potent symbol of the end of an era.

“The upscale stuff, it’s not what people want any more,” said Drew Nieporent, who was among the first to appreciate and exploit the downtown vibe when it began to resonate 20 years or so ago, and who, it must be said, has been disparaging fancy fine dining for years.

The Zagat survey of New York restaurants that will be released next month will include many fewer places that Tim Zagat, the book’s publisher, said he would call “impressive” than in the past. “Almost all the formal high-end restaurants are gone,” Mr. Zagat said. “Now it’s much more fun and young and hip.”

Mr. Zagat attributed the change to a generational shift. “The people who are eating out every day, lunch and dinner, are all young, and they’re looking for a different kind of experience,” he said. “They don’t want fine dining in the classic sense. They just don’t eat the same way. They don’t dress the same way.”

An extreme version of this view is in a new book “The Death of the Grown-Up” by Diana West (St. Martin’s Press), in which the author observed that parents behave like their children and dress in the same outfits. She argues that this generation, which subverts traditional values, has been disastrous for Western culture. It has not been good for dress codes in restaurants.

Certainly, if you are Daniel Boulud or Jean-Georges Vongerichten and want to expand your empire, you do not replicate your first-class establishment. You open a DB Bistro, or a Spice Market. In other words, you dress down and broaden your market.

And if you are Laurent Tourondel, you create a brand that is called BLT — it’s not KFC, but it defines your places as accessible and easy to enjoy. This brand does not showcase your formal French training as directly as in a restaurant with haute-cuisine ambition.

The tables at his latest, BLT Market, have paper mats — in the Ritz-Carlton hotel, no less. Mr. Tourondel and other seasoned restaurateurs may be put off by the high cost of formality. Mr. Kunz said that setting up a fine-dining restaurant requires “a much higher expense — the china, the glass, it’s just really, really expensive.”

Sandy Chilewich, whose woven vinyl placemats were introduced in 2000, expects to sell 300,000 of them this year to restaurants around the world.

And then there is rent, which is always a challenge in New York but is particularly punishing at the moment. “The rents have become so high that unless you have a big group you are getting priced out of the market,” said Leslie Siben, a managing director of JDF Realty in New York, which specializes in restaurant real estate. Paul McLaughlin, a partner in Oceana, Molyvos and Abboccato, said he has been looking for new restaurant locations but cannot find any that are not well over $100 a square foot.

Richard Coraine, the chief operating officer of Danny Meyer’s Union Square Hospitality Group, which owns establishments as diverse at Gramercy Tavern and Shake Shack, estimates that landlords now demand between $50,000 and $75,000 a month for suitable spaces, “compared to half of that 10 years ago.”

In years past, restaurateurs responded to high rents by striking out for new, cheaper neighborhoods. “But the hard thing is I don’t see any undeveloped areas right now,” Mr. Coraine said. “Everybody’s discovered the meatpacking district.” The same goes for the Lower East Side. Even in Harlem the rents are rising fast, Ms. Siben said.

Partly because of the expense of running a restaurant, the decline of elegant dining does not necessarily mean the food will be any cheaper. There has been a certain dumbing-down, as with the appearance of truffle oil everywhere, the culinary equivalent of a Louis Vuitton bag from a street vendor. But no matter what they are cooking, serious chefs do not want to compromise on ingredients.

Jennifer Baum, a publicist whose company, Bullfrog & Baum, handles restaurants, including the BLT chain, said that downscaling is not about inexpensive dining. “You’re wearing jeans and it can still be a couple of hundred dollars a person by the time you’re done,” she said.

And this season, established chefs and restaurateurs are offering more choices with less pretense than ever. So wear those Armani jeans out to dinner, if you wish, but remember to bring plenty of money.


Kyk die video: 4KNYC Spring WalkUpper West Side, ManhattanColumbus u0026 Amsterdam Ave. 65 to 83 St Mar 20 2021